If you have always been a dry skin type, or if it has developed as a result of a medical condition or treatment, skincare routines for dry skin types require a bit more than just your average routine.
In your youth, the alabaster smooth texture was probably the envy of all who were struggling to navigate the adolescent journey of hormonal acne, excess oil, and enlarged pores. As you entered into your 30s however, the onset of collagen loss and moisture loss, started to reveal finer lines sooner and sensitized conditions.
If your skin type changed due to medical treatment, (Accutane, or other medications) you may have been used to approaching your skin from an oil-balancing or acne-clearing view. However, as your skin has become naturally drier along with the same aging factor of collagen and hydration loss, you might be confused as to how to care for your skin.
So how do you build a post-40s dry skin homecare routine? Let’s take a look.
Understanding your dry skin type
A dry skin type is identified as having an eggshell appearance to the naked eye. It’s not that you don’t have pores, you wouldn’t be alive if you did not, but it just means that your pore sizes are very small in comparison to let’s say a combination or oily skin type.
Normal, Combo and Oily skin typically show visible pores around the T-zone (nose, tops of cheeks, and center of forehead) with Oily skin types showing visible pores throughout the face.
While these skin types may struggle with excess oil production, they also benefit from that oil (sebum) adding moisturizing factors to the surface of the skin.
With no visible oil presenting on the skin, your dry skin needs a bit more TLC to make sure it’s maintaining the hydration levels it needs to remain healthy.
Dry skin types can also deal with dry skin build-up on the surface of the skin.
While other skin types like Oily or Acneic have to worry about skin cells not exfoliating off safely and getting caught up with oil and debris, dry skin types have this issue with dry skin cells flattening and stacking on the surface of the skin.
So while you may see fewer breakouts, your skin can often appear dull, as the skin build-up is trapping your newer cells behind it.
Maximizing the Glow
Two keys to a good dry skincare routine at home is to keep in mind, maximizing moisture, and reducing dry skin build-up. Here’s how.
Exfoliation.
A necessary but potentially problematic element of any skincare routine. Use it appropriately and you encourage healthy skin renewal, better product penetration, and overall appearance. Overdo it, and you end up with a damaged natural skin barrier function which can trigger, inflammation, breakouts, and premature aging in the skin.
We want to go for the former.
Exfoliation in a dry skin care routine helps to lift the build-up of flattened cells on the surface of the skin.
That dull, grey cast to the skin fades and those newer skin cells can shine through to the surface of the skin.
Safer exfoliation for dry skin types are either gentle mechanical (mild scrubs, or even just a damp washcloth) or an enzymatic-based exfoliation mask loaded with hydrating ingredients.
Enzymatic exfoliants (like papain or bromelain) dissolve dry skin build-up on the surface of the skin gently without the use of scrubs and are usually combined with skin-fortifying ingredients that immediately work into the deeper levels of the skin.
First Key to your dry skincare routine at home is to get the build-up out of the way, safely.
The second key is to layer moisture, but make it multitask!
In your teens and 20s, just making sure your skin stays properly hydrated may have been enough. As you entered into your 30s having more consistency was probably the focus, with a few gold stars going to those of you who started boosting your collagen supplementation.
Now in your 40s or post-40s, you need to be a little more intentional about having your layers of hydration do more. Here are a few things to look for.
Make your hydration multitask
When building your dry skincare routine, you want to remember your layers.
Your skin needs both water-based and oil-based moisture sources for it to remain ideally hydrated.
And just like layering up your clothes in winter seasons to insulate and hold warmth in, the same concept applies to laying hydration on your skin.
Start with the smallest molecular weight first
Building your layers starts with clean skin, that has been PH balanced with a hydrating toner to set the stage for the optimal performance of your products.
Then layer your water-based serums.
Now your water-based serums standardly should have ingredients like Sodium-PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, or Hyaluronic Acid. These are water-binding ingredients, which will allow your hydrating toner to work even better, by attaching it to your skin and absorbing that moisture into your skin.
But bump it up a notch and look for ingredients that take this step a bit further.
Tyrosinase inhibitors – If you’ve been around for a while you’ve heard me rave about how essential these ingredients are for keeping hyperpigmentation at bay. A few faves, are Alpha Arbutin, Tranexamic Acid, and Kojic Acid.
Peptides: These little wonder catalysts actually help your body naturally do its thing. There are a variety of peptides some that assist in collagen synthesis, others that help soothe inflammation and repair damaged cells all while improving your barrier function. So look for peptides based on your main target concerns to help your hydration steps multitask.
Stem-cells + Growth factors: Welcome to the world of ingredient tech! Stem cells and Growth factors are derived often from plants in skincare and then added to serums to boost the nutrient and healing properties within your skin for healthier skin without. Bonus these wonder ingredients work really well with peptides to really give a standout per
Bump it up with Oil-based Serums
So remember your skin needs both water-based and oil-based moisture.
Oil-based serums are essential for dry skin types as you naturally don’t produce a ton of oil to help your skin.
Selecting a good facial oil when treating dry skin should always include incorporating oils that deeply nourish and restore the skin.
Deep Hydrating Oils: Oils like Rosehip, Carrot Seed, and Jojoba Oils are great base oils to look for that will give you great moisture that lasts.
Power up your Oil-based Serums
Antioxidants: Oil-based serums are also great ways to deliver lipid-soluble skin ingredients that work best in oil-based delivery formulations.
Antioxidants are your first line of defense against environmental pre-mature aging factors such as free radicals, pollutants, and even to some extent UV exposure.
Antioxidants to look for are ingredients like Ferulic Acid, Reveratrol, Stabilized Vitamin C, and Vitamin E
Retinol: Retinol and Vitamin A are great for targeting premature aging concerns, but often certain over-the-counter forms of retinol can actually be irritating to dry skin types.
So instead, look for Retinoic Acids derivates, like a retinoid, which provided the benefits without the irritation. This is especially helpful for those concerned with hyperpigmentation.
Natural Rejuvenating Ingredients: Take your oil serum one step further and treat yourself to some more intentionally selected plant-powered ingredients.
Sea Buckthorn Oil – High in Oleic and Linoleic Acids with both help to retain moisture and leave smooth skin as a result.
Evening Primrose Oil – Reduces inflammation while also deeply nourishing your skin, it has also been found to stimulate collagen synthesis. Ideal for post-30s skincare, essential for 40’s , and post-skincare routines at home.
Prickly Pear Oil – One of the most nourishing oil ingredients with some of the highest amounts of Vitamin E. Prickly Pear also reduces inflammation in the skin, while providing deep antioxidants for cell protection. While its provided fatty acids, help to revitalize dull complexions.
And so now that you have your layers powered up, you want to seal it all in with a good moisturizer.
Finish each routine with a nourishing medium to heavy-weight moisturizer. It should include ingredients like ceramides to support a healthy skin barrier function. Reducing water loss in hydration and sealing in what you have invested in.
A good routine is to layer both in your AM + PM routine. Making sure to leave out any exfoliation or Retinols in the daytime and include SPF instead.
Start progressively with exfoliation and exfoliating ingredients like retinol to avoid over-exfoliation. Try cycling in your exfoliation 1-2x per week and your retinol or retinoids every other night to monitor for sensitivity or redness. If all progresses well, then you can up your use of retinol or retinoids to each night taking a break every 4-6 weeks to give your skin a chance to rest and get the most benefits from your routine.
You can refer to the infographic below if you’d like this to include in your planner or leave posted to your bathroom wall.
Alright so there you have it, the best way to approach setting up a skincare routine for dry skin types post-40.
Let me know if this was helpful, and if you have any favorites, leave a comment below!
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Lee Good says
I actually learnt a lot from reading your article on treating my dry skin. Never knew when to add a serum and did not know i could just exfoliate with a wash cloth… thanks
Toni Thomas says
Thanks so much for your comment Lee! Hope you continue to learn and get some good tips for your skincare routines at home! 🧡🧡🧡
Toni Thomas says
Thanks Lee! So glad it’s being helpful.