It’s time to meet one of the latest and greatest ingredients in the fight to treat hyperpigmentation conditions. Meet Tranexamic Acid.
Hyperpigmentation is a tricky condition for anyone.
But dealing with multiple forms of hyperpigmentation, whether it be from stress breakouts, melasma, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, the journey to an even skin tone can be a frustrating one.
If you also happen to have Skin of Color, it is even more of a delicate balance. Making sure to effectively target existing hyperpigmentation, without accidentally causing inflammation which can inadvertently trigger new pigmentation.
So let’s take a little deeper look at this discoloration-targeting ingredient which has justly garnered a strong following.
But first! Just a little reminder:
Hyperpigmentation (dark spots, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) is a bodily response to perceived trauma to the skin.
It’s our body’s defense mechanism attempting to protect us.
Now with hyperpigmentation, people often experience a darker spot or blanketed area darker than their normal skin tone color. This causes an uneven skin tone where patches of discoloration which can bother some.
Generally, we wait for a breakout to run its course; or use the typical ingredients in our arsenal, like a gentle scrub or exfoliating serum to lift the pigmentation layers.
Chemical exfoliants like Salicylic Acid or Glycolic Acid can help seek out oil and unclog congested pores while exfoliating the top layers of the skin to help lift surface layers of hyperpigmentation with time.
Retinoids a derivative of Vitamin A help lift pigmentation in much the same way.
But what if the typical exfoliants are too harsh for your skin? Or what if you haven’t been seeing the results you need?
Well, there are two things to note.
As we just went over above, not all hyperpigmentation comes from the same source.
Hyperpigmentation from a healing breakout will be more toward the surface of the skin.
Hyperpigmentation caused by hormonal changes, from stress, pregnancy, or even life-changing events such as puberty, occurs deeper within the skin and therefore takes much longer to rise to the surface.
If your pigmentation falls in the latter, or if you have skin of color, you will want to tackle your hyperpigmentation with more than just exfoliants.
And thanks to ever-evolving skin ingredient technology Tranexamic Acid is here to help.
So what exactly is Tranexamic Acid?
A lesser-known ingredient that is increasingly gaining a fan base, Tranexamic Acid was discovered to show benefits for the skin from its traditional use as an oral medication.
Tranexamic Acid traditionally has been used as a medication to treat heavy menstrual bleeding.
It was discovered additionally, that when applied to the surface of the skin, it worked as a tyrosinase inhibitor.
If you’ve been around me for even a hot minute you will quickly come to know that tyrosinase inhibitors act to suppress melanin (the cause of skin color or pigmentation) production in our skin.
This makes tyrosinase inhibitors uniquely beneficial for skin of color, which has increased melanin amounts to begin with and increased levels of production. These two factors make hyperpigmentation conditions much more common in skin of color and much harder to treat.
What else?
Studies have shown Tranexamic Acid to be beneficial in strengthening the skin’s barrier function.
This is great news for clients dealing with acne conditions that are healing, as well as those with sensitized conditions like eczema or rosacea. These conditions leave the skin barrier function impaired while also inflamed. So this can lead to hyperpigmentation conditions as well.
Additionally, Tranexamic Acid has been shown to be beneficial in treating melasma which is typically harder to lift and lighten.
How should I use it?
Tranexamic Acid can be used in your routine morning and night after cleansing and toning most formulations will be water-based so they should be applied before heavier oil serums or creams.
If using an AHA or BHA, or even a Retinoid apply this and then give your skin time to absorb it and dry down before applying your Tyrosinase inhibitors.
Generally, studies find that between 2-5% active ingredient is most effective.
And like other Tyrosinase inhibitors, it works better with others. To name a few to look for:
Licorice Extract, Daisy Extract, Alpha Arbutin.
And for skin of color, a winning combo will always be to pair this with Niacinamide. This wonder ingredient helps calm and soothe the skin, reducing inflammation and helping with minimizing pore appearance.
What not to do.
Don’t ever mix Tranexamic Acid with your other exfoliants or apply it at the same time.
The PH levels will be different and will adversely affect the efficacy of the products.
Don’t leave this on without sealing everything with a moisturizer.
A good moisturizer with healing ceramides goes a long way in safely healing your skin as well as fortifying your skin’s natural barrier function.
Now for the fun part. Some top-rated Tranexamic Acid products to try.
While there are now quite a few options on the market with Tranexamic Acid in it.
I often believe it’s best to start off with some reviewed accessible options rather than diving into the pricer options unless you can afford them.
disclaimer: none of this content is sponsored. however, if you do choose to purchase via one of the links included below, I may be eligible for a small commission, at no cost to you. thank you for your support.
Good Molecules:
Discoloration Correction Serum:
3% Tranexamic Acid and 4% Niacinamide hits the target of the 2-5% Tranexamic Acid.
Paired with Niacinamide gives a helpful combination of anti-inflammatory and melanin-inhibiting benefits to counter hyperpigmentation.
Naturium Tranexamic Acid 5%
Tranexamic Acid at 5% paired with Niacinamide but also Kojic Acid and Licorice Root Extract which are both natural brighteners.
Kojic Acid is derived from Mushrooms and Licorice Root also doubles as an anti-inflammatory which we know is key for skin of color.
Inkey List
Tranexamic Acid 2%
2, 2 and 2. 2% Tranexamic Acid, 2% Acai Berry and 2% Vitamin C.
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