Navigating the sea of skincare misinformation is a battle on any given day. From the viral TikTok trends encouraging you to shave your face with an eyebrow razor, to your latest favorite celebrity coming out with their fragrance-heavy skincare line, it’s hard to break through the noise with actual educational facts.
But for skin of color, the pre-existing skincare myths have an added layer of confusion that we finally need to put to bed.
In this post, we’re going to review the most popular skincare myths regarding skin of color that we’re not carrying into 2023.
This post is about breaking top skincare myths about skin of color.
Have you ever gone shopping for skincare as a person of color and gotten recommendations to control your oil, in every step of your routine?
Have you ever gone in for a professional treatment and leave with much of the same? Leaving you at home with tight, dehydrated angry skin and not sure what to do? Well, more than likely you’ve been subjected to a skincare myth.
What are skincare myths and where do they come from?
Skincare myths are incorrect assumptions or generalizations about how to care for skin that has found their way into popular and professional culture.
Skincare myths, particularly about skin of color have mostly developed from the lack of research and attention paid to studying the actual effects of ingredients and other skin conditions specific to individuals of melanated skin.
Why are these assumptions so dangerous?
Skincare myths are problematic and can be dangerous because it tends to generalize a group of people.
These generalizations can have effects on how professionals may choose to treat you at first treatment.
Think inappropriate peel ingredients and percentages.
Oil stripping and dehydrating ingredients (alcohols, chemical exfoliating actives, abrasive scrubs).
Overlooking sensitized conditions when redness is not visible to the naked eye or prescribing these types of ingredients as home care without truly understanding your skin type or holistic factors contributing to your overall skin condition.
These actions can cause serious harmful impacts, burns, impaired skin barrier function, chronic skin irritation and lasting hyperpigmentation.
Not to mention wasting valuable dollars and not actually achieving solutions to your primary skin concerns.
So what are some of these major myths?
Let’s start with the major one. Skin of Color doesn’t need SPF.
Sunscreen is a daily requirement for all skin types and tones. The Skincare myth that skin of color doesn’t need skincare is simply false.
It originates from a truth that more melanated skin has greater protection to UV damage. And this is correct. However, it does not mean that melanated skin is not vulnerable to UV-related damage that can cause skin cancer, hyperpigmentation, or activated Melasma conditions.
Sunscreen additionally provides protection from premature aging, of which sun exposure is mostly responsible for.
So sun protection is a requirement in your skincare routine. Everyday.
African American skin is typically oily and or a combination skin type.
Truth is that African American skin is quite sensitive.
Typically African American skin can present as oily because the person is actually dehydrated. When you are dehydrated, this can cause your body to kick up oil production to compensate. This oil is expressed in order to try to hydrate your skin and so your condition may show excess oil, while your skin is in fact dry.
Because most education around treating skin is based on addressing symptoms not understanding the root cause of conditions. The assumptions are made on visible symptoms and fail to address the contributing factors that lead to the condition.
As research begins to develop, research is revealing that African American skin is actually sensitive to environmental stressors, skin ingredients, fragrances, laundry detergents, and other industrial chemicals.
African Americans have a large population of intolerance to lactose, gluten sensitivity, and in women, menstrual conditions which all can play a part in how your skin presents and the various conditions resulting from them.
Have a look at this article from The National Eczema Association on the increased likelihood of Eczema conditions in Black Children compared to other ethnic groups.
Here is the research paper much of the above article is based on.
Dealing with Eczema?
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Skin of color needs constant exfoliation
Another harmful myth is that skin of color requires more exfoliation. This assumption stems from the previous one that most skin of color, African American or Black skin are typically oily skin types.
This assumption stacks on top of the belief that because the skin type is oily, it must require more frequent exfoliation in order to avoid build-up or acne conditions.
While that approach is valid for a true oily skin type, if you’re not this can lead to over-stripping your skin of its’ natural oils, and lead to further irritation that in turn causes other problematic skin conditions.
Skin of color like most other skin types benefit from exfoliation when appropriate. However special consideration should be given to avoiding ingredients and types that can lead to hyperpigmentation conditions or atopic dermatitis.
Some of these researched ingredients as Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid in certain percentages.
Alcohol that are often found in certain skincare formulations.
Check out this video from Dr. Vanita Rattan Dermatologist and Skincare Formula, on why you may want to consider avoiding Glycolic Acid in caring for your skin.
Exfoliation should be done at home or in treatment for advanced exfoliation. At home, this should be done at a baseline or 1 a week or every other to allow for proper product penetration so that your home care can do the most it can effectively.
If directed under professional supervision, after a thorough skin analysis and lifestyle consultation, exfoliation can be increased to target specific skin conditions or skin types.
Some of the instances where increased exfoliation may occur are when dealing with rough texture where the skin’s barrier function is otherwise healthy.
When targeting hyperpigmentation conditions or Melasma. An Exfoliation routine may be prescribed layered with melanocyte-inhibiting target serums to prevent rebound hyperpigmentation while lifting existing layers of hyperpigmentation.
Your Melanocytes are responsible for your production of melanin or pigment in your skin. In conditions of hyperpigmentation, it is important to regulate the production of melanin as you are exfoliating to lift existing hyperpigmentation.
Fragrance and Skin of color
We all love to look and smell our best.
Fragrance is, however, the #1 allergen and should not be in our skincare.
Fragrances in skin care can lead to atopic dermatitis and for skin that is already sensitive or sensitized, dealing with impaired barrier function, fragrances contribute to further irritated conditions.
This for Skin of color can have a cascading effect that can lead to hyperpigmentation conditions, scaring, and breakouts.
Avoid fragrances in skincare whenever possible.
So you’ve just read through some the top skincare myths when it comes to caring for skin of color.
How will you change your approach to your skincare at home based on these insights?
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